Winch mounting and wiring, lighting, cab accessories, armor, radios and seats — installed and wired at our shop in Washington County.
MST Motorsports installs and wires UTV accessories at our shop at 987 S 1900 East in Washington, Utah — a few minutes from St. George, Hurricane, Ivins, Santa Clara, La Verkin and Leeds, and close enough to Sand Hollow State Park that a lot of what we bolt on gets used the same weekend. This page is about the installation work itself: fitment, mounting, wiring and setup. You bring the part, or tell us what you are after and we will source it — either way, the part goes on the machine here and gets wired properly.
Accessory work on a side-by-side is not the same job as accessory work on a truck. There is less room for a wire run, the frame is exposed to sand and water in a way a unibody never is, and everything you bolt to the front of the machine changes how it steers. Mounting hardware, cable routing, fusing and ground quality are what separate an accessory that survives a season at the dunes from one that comes loose or stops working the first time it gets wet.
A winch is the accessory most likely to be installed badly, because most of the job is electrical and none of that part is visible once the plastics go back on. The mount plate has to match both the winch pattern and the machine's frame or bumper, and it has to sit where the fairlead can pull at an angle without the rope sawing on bodywork.
The wiring is where we spend the time. The contactor gets a location that stays clear of standing water and packed sand. Power and ground cables are sized for the winch's draw, routed away from exhaust heat and suspension travel, secured so nothing chafes on a frame edge, and protected at the battery. Grounds go to clean metal, not to whatever bolt is closest. The control — dash rocker, handlebar-style switch or handheld — gets run and mounted where you can actually reach it while you are watching the rope.
Sand Hollow and Warner Valley recoveries are hard on a winch. If yours is already installed and it is drawing weakly, tripping, or working intermittently, that is usually a connection or ground problem rather than a dead motor, and it belongs with UTV electrical diagnostics rather than a replacement winch.
Light bars, rock lights and chase lights, wired with relays, fusing and switch control rather than spliced into whatever circuit is nearby.
Roofs, doors, windshields and mirrors fitted to the cage, plus bumpers, rock sliders and skid plates torqued to spec on frame mounting points.
Radios and intercoms mounted and wired with attention to antenna placement and grounding, plus harness and seat installation. Rugged Radios and PRP are both on our brands list. We also install and service PCI Race Radios communication systems, audio from UTV Stereo and Rockford Fosgate, and cab and mounting hardware from Assault Industries and Mob Armor.
Lighting is the second-most-requested install after winches, and the failure mode is almost always the wiring rather than the light. A light bar drawing through an undersized wire, or fed off a circuit that was never meant to carry it, will dim, flicker or take a fuse with it. We wire lighting through relays with the fusing at the power source, run the harness where it is protected from heat and suspension movement, and put the switch somewhere you can find it in the dark with gloves on.
Rock lights and chase lights add their own wrinkle: rock lights live in the worst place on the machine for water and debris, and chase lights sit on a whip that flexes constantly. Both need connectors and strain relief chosen for that, not for a garage floor. The same approach applies on the truck and Jeep side — see lighting and accessory installation for that work.
Cab accessories look like straightforward bolt-on parts, and on a cage that has never been touched they often are. On a machine that has been repaired, re-caged or lightly bent, they are not — a roof or door that will not line up is frequently telling you something about the cage rather than about the part. If a panel does not sit right, we would rather tell you why than force it.
Bumpers, rock sliders and skid plates mount to the frame and carry real load, so hardware grade, thread engagement and torque matter. We check that a front bumper and winch combination still clears the suspension through full travel, and that a skid plate is not trapping sand against a component that needs airflow.
A loaded machine is a heavier machine, and the weight rarely lands where the factory suspension tune expected it. A roof, full doors, a steel front bumper and a winch put mass high and forward. In deep sand that shows up as a machine that pushes in a turn; on slickrock it shows up as bottoming that was not there before. If you are adding a full round of accessories, it is worth pairing that with UTV suspension service or a shock re-valve so the setup matches the new weight.
Bigger tires are the other change that travels with an accessory build. Tire and wheel work is covered on UTV tires and wheels, and if the tires go up far enough to hurt low-speed drive, that is where gear reduction and portal boxes come in. Everything else we do for side-by-sides is on the UTV service hub.
Tell us the machine and what you want on it. If you don't have the part yet, we can source it.